As we are in the midst of a refit, this page is also a “Work in Progress.” We’ll add projects and their stories as we check them off the list…and as we get time to write them up.
Information on prior restoration (from previous owners) of Selkie.
Click to jump to a specific project…
Standing Rigging Replacement – (coming soon) September 2012
HULL AND DECK
GROUND TACKLE, DINGHY, ETC
Chainplate Replacement – July 2012
The following is a breakdown on what was found on the old chainplates, so that we might learn about the stress points and the corrosion prone areas of our rig. The chainplates that were replaced were the two backstays, the two forward lower shrouds, to aft lower shrouds and the upper shrouds, for a total of 8 new plates. We did not replace the chainplates for the running backstays or the whisker stays, nor the stem fitting. Luis Hernandez of Guaymas, Sonora fabricated the pieces from 304 stainless steel.
Stress Fractures (visible to the naked eye):
-Both backstay chainplates had stress fractures around the topmost bolt hole -Both forward lower shrouds had stress fractures around the topmost hole
-All 8 chainplates showed extensive crevice corrosion on the backsides (except starboard upper, see below) -Every bolt hole showed crevice corrosion on the face of the chainplate beneath where the head of the bolt sat -All chainplates showed at least some corrosion at the level of the rubrail…a small area of rust was often visible on the side of the chainplate at this elevation, but the backside of the plate always proved much more extensively corroded than was was visible from the front -Some areas with excessive bedding compound were extensively corroded beneath the compound compared to adjacent areas…other areas showed no sign of corrosion beneath bedding compound; perhaps this was due to the outer seal of the compound becoming loose
-Starboard upper shroud chainplate appeared newer than the rest, probably replaced recently -All bolts were well bedded and showed no sign of corrosion -No crevice corrosion (some slight superficial rust) on any of the upper eyes of the chainplates…it appears that washers were welded onto the front and back of the plate to increase the thickness at the eye. No corrosion inside of these eye pieces and only superficial rust at the welds. -No visible fractures or abnormalities at the bends
Installation of New Chainplates
–Polysulfide bedding compound (LifeCalk)-Removed chainplates 2 or 3 at a time to take them to the fabricator. When we removed the 2 upper shrouds, we ran halyards outboard as temporary backup support.
We installed a Nature’s Head composting head in place of the Jabsco that was previously used. No holding tank was present, and we didn’t want to be forced to discharge wastes while at anchor or in marinas. We ran the exhaust hose about three feet above the fan level and out through the side of the cabintop. We enlarged an existing hole to accept a bronze clam vent, which we bedded inside and out with polysulfide (Lifecalk). We used the 12v fan that Nature’s Head provided.
Selkie is endowed with a beautiful teak bowsprit, but when we arrived, we saw that it was in need of some TLC. The sprit was built of three solid boards laminated together so that the joints faced upward. Said joints were also splitting apart due to contraction of the wood, leaving a gap of up to 3/16″. We sanded and scraped back to bare wood, and then filled the cracks with G/Flex epoxy built up with colloidal silica. We then finished the teak with 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol.
The summer rains brought with them wet v-berth cushions. We looked up at hatch and realized that along with being very yellowed, the plexiglass hatch cover also had stress cracks at all of the screw holes. These cracks were allowing rainwater to enter the boat. We bought a piece of 1/4″ plexiglass, filed the corners and sides smooth, and bedded in polysulfide (Life Calk).
Hard Dinghy Restoration – August 2012
Construction appears to be fiberglass only hull with a wooden gunwale that accepts the screws and hardware. Transom appears to be plywood under fiberglass. We added fiberglass reinforcement to aft corners and some areas of the gunwale. We also rebedded all the screws for the rubrail and the oarlock gudgeons with polysulfide (Lifecalk).
We painted the topsides and all the white portions of the interior with two coats of two part polyurethane. We tipped corners that were inaccessible to a roller, but all other surfaces were painted with a roller only. Finish was decent to good (but much better than our attempt at roller followed by brush).
We stenciled and painted the name: “Selkie”. See photos and get more details by reading the post here.
Dinghy Oar Restoration – August 2012
The dinghy came with a set of oars, nicely shaped and very light, but they were painted bright yellow and beginning to flake. We decided to see what lay beneath the paint, and after scraping and sanding away for many, many hours, we found beautiful spruce. There appeared to be a layer of epoxy below the paint, which we left intact on the blades. We then epoxied (G/Flex) the leathers to the shaft where they contact the oarlocks, and then stitched the leathers tight. An additional coat of epoxy was added on top of the stitching to add further chafe protection. Next we filled any dings with epoxy and faired the tip and blade edges with three coats of epoxy to provide abrasion resistance. We then applied three coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane all around. Then came the fun part. We laid Moku hitching on the handles and turk’s heads above and below the hitching to capture the ends. Finally, we built a turk’s head on the blade end of the leather, then slipped the bronze oarlock atop the leather, and then tied another turk’s head at the handle end of the leather to capture the oarlock. Now we can pick up the oars, locks and all, and we don’t have to leave either in the dinghy when we leave it unattended. Also, the very unbouyant oarlocks are now firmly affixed to a floating object, preventing unnecessary dives to the bottom of the bay to retrieve them.
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